Lamen! Lamen! Lamen! - An Au Revoir To Japan

The art of shibui.

By Johnny Nghiem

November 19^th, 2016

GINZA

"Shibui (渋い) (adjective), shibumi (渋み) (noun), or shibusa (渋さ) (noun) are Japanese words which refer to a particular aesthetic of simple, subtle, and unobtrusive beauty. Like other Japanese aesthetic terms, such as iki and wabi-sabi, shibui can apply to a wide variety of subjects, not just art or fashion."

Or it can simply mean old school cool.

Lamen! Lamen! Lamen! - An Au Revoir To Japan

Sometimes I still like to daydream where I'm in some fantastical environment which I have complete control. Sometimes those daydreams begin carving their way into my reality or at least I want it to selfishly. I've come to identify that as expectations and that's how I'd like to begin this post.

I get tangled in that mess quite a bit where I want what I dream but sometimes what I dream isn't what I should or shouldn't want at all. As I grow another year being that I'm now 32 years and 5 days old, I've come full circle with myself to remain who I am, keep it simple and keep it moving.

For the final days in Tokyo, we decided to finally check out the Ginza district. If you don't know what Ginza is, it's pretty much your Soho (New York) meets Yorkville (Toronto) but far superior architecture.

Above (Okuno Building Gallery) and below (Ginza Graphic Gallery) are two vastly different galleries we checked in Ginza which you have do a little search to find.

The Okuno Building Gallery was once a luxurious apartment complex and is actually the oldest building in Ginza (constructed in 1932). Today it houses more than 50 galleries and workshops in the same rooms except a bit unkept and probably full of asbestos.

The Ginza Graphic Gallery was currently showcasing Enomoto Ryoichi Kokaiki's work where you can see beautifully crafted print work and all sorts of uses for typography. One could only wonder how much of a nightmare it would be to do it all in InDesign.

Ginza is kind of like the less busier version of Harajuku and where both areas have fashion in common, everyone in Ginza seems to be a bit more detailed and clean-cut amidst the chaos of shoppers and eye-catching window displays.

Below is the Park-Ing Ginza which is located in the Sony Building (B3F). Gone is the original function of the space which was a parking garage and in is a new retail format. Various "shops" sprawl about and only selected pieces are shown and this concept brings together brands, music, and people under one umbrella where they work off of one another to create a sense of community.

ASAKUSA

Asakusa was once regarded as the premier entertainment district in Tokyo as it housed the first movie theatre ever in Japan, the Denkikan. It also houses what looks to most as a golden poo on a building.

The Sensō-ji (金龍山浅草寺) is the oldest Buddhist templed in Tokyo and on the third weekend of every May, one of the three great Shinto festivals (Sanja Matsuri) takes place and over 1.5 - 2.0 million locals and tourists come and takeover the temple grounds. Below is just another busy day but imagine the congestion with that many people!

The burning of incense is an important ritual in all Buddhist traditions, but the purpose and symbolism slightly differ for each tradition. Below visitors are seen wafting the smoke from the joukoro all over their face and body in hopes, as tradition goes, to retain some of its strength (at Sensō-ji the incense smoke from the joukoro is to bestow health). Like too much of anything though, the buffet of smoke you want to waft on you can turn you into smelling like an ashtray in no time.

Also on the temple grounds is Nakamise-Dōri. This 250m stretch of shops has everything from traditional Japanese goods, tourist traps, and some bites. This is supposedly one of Japan's oldest shopping streets and the row of shutters at the front of the stores is used as a large canvas on which traditional scenes for each season are drawn so even when it's closed, it still makes for a pleasant walk.

On my final night in Tokyo, we decided to finally check out Lion Cafe. Originally built in 1923 only to be rebuilt in 1950 after the Tokyo bombings during the second world war. This two-level theatre pays homage to the period as the furniture is dated and the menu hasn't changed since 1923, it really is like taking a step back in time

At the front of house, an enormous wooden speaker system stands where a stage could've been and flanked all around is a vast collection of vinyl and CDs. There is only one rule to this cafe; there's absolutely no talking with the only exception being the waiter who quietly announces the next record on the PA system.

As much as I first thought of going here to being a gimmick, I left with invisible heartfelt tears. Not only was this my last night in Tokyo, but after being in there for quite some time, it gave me a lot of time to put myself in perspective and a coffee coma induced meditative state - that no matter how down I feel, I should accept all the good energy that's around me anyway and not shelter myself.

With the trip more or less wrapping up, I'd like to give a special shout out to my best friend and soul mate Fraser Greenberg.

When we both lost our girlfriends at the same time after we duo gifted them AGO memberships, we bonded over our dire need of a companion. It’s been 6 or 7 years now and you’ve been the most loyal person I’ve ever known. There’s nobody else that I’d raise a child with, pause and no homo, but also because you’re Jewish and have money. Thank you for saving me from my nightmares and being the shaft to my sword, pause.